Campeche, with its pastel-painted homes,
ramparts and pirate history, intrigued us. On the pockmarked
road from Hopelchen to Xpujil, we dodged iguanas and drove
through the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve's butterfly-filled
jungles.
But of all the great places we experienced, Xcalak was the
hardest to leave. It was here where we found peace and
relaxation, where we learned to appreciate quiet and
simplicity.
Surrounded by marshes, Xcalak (pronounced Shka-lack) is
located 1,090 miles north of the equator, on the southeastern
tip of the Yucatan and just 15 miles north of the border to
Belize.
Unlike Cancun or Playa del Carmen, Xcalak remains
relatively undeveloped. Don't expect to find ATMs or Internet
cafes here. Although a paved road leads to the village, the
dirt path through town and along the beach certainly isn't.
Its 270 inhabitants live in Caribbean-style wooden homes
and earn their living mostly through lobster and conch
fishing. Their village, like other areas of the Yucatan, has
been pummeled by hurricanes throughout the years and was
completely ravaged in 1955.
Xcalak is part of the Costa Maya, which is more affordable
and less crowded than the famed Mayan Riviera to the north.
While the setting here is rustic, the accommodations
provide all the creature comforts.
Visitors have several hotel/resort options along the beach,
including a clothing-optional one called Playa Sonrisa. All
have solar power and offer 24-hour electricity, charming rooms
and beautiful beach views. These resorts are small and far
apart from each other so you rarely run into other people
unless you drive into town.
We chose to stay at Casa Carolina, a cozy, intimate resort
with only four guest rooms decorated with hand-painted
talavera tile. Each one has a kitchen complete with pots and
pans, and a balcony or patio facing the Caribbean.
"Casa Carolina is a beach resort catering to those
discriminating travelers who desire something different,"
states their Web site.
The owners, Bob Villier and Caroline Wexler, formerly of
Philadelphia, proved to be extremely friendly and gracious.
They'll help you arrange day trips, give you advice on where
to go, and provide you with that ice-cold beer or margarita
when you need it the most. Opening Casa Carolina was a
lifelong dream for the couple, who have been traveling
throughout the Yucatan since the 1980s.
I was content to lounge on the beach beneath a thatched
shade known as a palapa, drink Sol beer and skim through
magazines as I listened to the waves pound the nearby reef.
But surprisingly, there was so much to do.
One morning we snorkeled to some nearby coral, where we
found ourselves surrounded by fish in various shapes and
colors. We kayaked to a large coral reef about 500 yards from
shore and sunbathed on Casa Carolina's private dock.
Ted also had one of his best scuba diving experiences here,
where he swam among sea turtles, barracuda and other sea life.
He was amazed by the warmth of the water -- even at 65 feet
below the surface, the temperature didn't dip below 77
degrees. (Casa Carolina, by the way, is also a training center
for divers. Villier, a certified NAUI instructor trainer, has
been diving since the '60s.)
About 40 kilometers away from Xcalak is the Banco
Chinchorro, the world's second largest barrier reef and a must
for most divers and snorkelers.
Guests at Casa Carolina as well as other Xcalak resorts
also can go on fishing or bird-watching tours or even take a
trip to Belize's San Pedro by boat.
When we weren't playing in the water, relaxing on the beach
or admiring the view from our balcony, we explored the town of
Xcalak.
There are only three restaurants in this village, and the
most popular one is called Conchitas. The owner, Alejandro,
catches dinner every day on his 15-foot skiff. Guests can
contact Alejandro by marine radio each morning to learn what's
on the evening menu and reserve a lobster, if he catches some
that day. Our favorite meal there was fresh-caught snapper
garnished with achiote, the red Yucatecan spice that reminds
me of paprika.
Since Ted and I cooked most of our meals, we got a taste of
what shopping's like in Xcalak. While some visitors choose to
shop by providing a list to a truck driver who comes by once a
week with groceries, we decided to explore the tiendas.
Because Xcalak is quite isolated, ingredients are sometimes
hard to find. And if you're Spanish is limited, pointing at
something isn't always an option.
After visiting two tiny stores, we managed to purchase
eggs, pasta, yogurt, Velveeta-like cheese and even bacon. We
lucked out with fruits and vegetables -- everything from juicy
mangoes and sweet pineapple to giant avocados that made the
best-tasting guacamole.
One evening, Roberta and Vicente, two hotel guests from
Rome, invited us to a five-course meal they cooked complete
with grouper Vicente caught that morning. With plenty of beer,
Latin music in the background and the company of other
travelers, it was the perfect way to spend the last of our
three nights in this lovely setting.
We will never forget the hospitality of our hosts, the
tranquility of the turquoise waters and the star-studded
nights in Xcalak.
