August 29, 2004

  TRAVEL 101: XCALAK ON THE YUCATAN
PENINSULA'S ROAD LESS TRAVELED 

 KATHRYN KURTZ - Special Writer, The Oregonian

Where: Xcalak, at the end of the only north-south highway on the Yucatan Peninsula, almost to Belize. A five-hour drive from Cancun.

Why: Cancun is overbuilt, overcrowded and overrun with tourists. Xcalak (pronounced shka-lak) is the real Mexico.

What's there: A village of 270 people on a talcum soft Caribbean beach sheltered by the world's second longest barrier reef. Expect 260 days of sunshine, postcard palm trees and a laid-back lifestyle.

Back story: Originally settled by pre-Hispanic Mayans, 18th Century English pirates ruled much of the Yucatan coastline, looting Spanish ships until the Mexican navy gained control. Xcalak officially became a village in 1900. Shipping, fishing and export of coconuts created a lively economy until 1955, when Hurricane Janet wiped out most of the coconut plantations. Now the locals are a blend of Mayan, Mestizo, Belizeans, Hondurans and El Salvadorans. The first dive shop opened in the 1990s. Xcalak is now part of a government plan for area development, but locals hope the crowds stay well to the north.

The town: Xcalak has a sleepy, ramshackle ambience. Most roads are unpaved. Residents live in Caribbean-style wood houses raised off the ground or in cinder block houses. There are a few local restaurants that sometimes keep irregular hours, small shops selling some food and necessities but not souvenirs, and a field where locals play soccer. The warm, turquoise water -- not the village -- is the star attraction.

What to do: Protected by the reef one-half mile offshore, the calm waters directly off the beach are ideal for swimming, snorkeling and kayaking. Several operators offer trips to the reef for snorkeling, scuba diving and fishing. Trips through mangrove waterways, bird-watching islands and to Belize can be arranged. And why resist swaying in a hammock with a good book?

Expatriate lifestyle: Mexico has become a popular destination for retired Americans and Europeans who want to simplify their lives. Many of the small, delightful hotels in Xcalak are owned and operated by expats. Caroline Wexler (former social worker) and Bob Villier (former public relations executive), from Philadelphia, built Casa Carolina after years of vacationing and diving in Xcalak. When it came to the naming, Caroline won: Casa Carolina sounds a lot better than Casa Bob's. It's a charming, eco-friendly four-room beachfront hotel and dive center that offers absolute refuge and relaxation. Rooms ($65 - $85/double, depending on the season, www.casacarolina.net) come equipped with a small kitchen, lovely tiled bathrooms, fans and a covered balcony or porch about 25 feet from the water. Hammocks, kayaks and bicycles are always available. Caroline serves homemade muffins and fruit for breakfast in a thatched palapa, and Bob mixes magnificent margaritas in the evening.

Where to eat: Casa Carolina and several other hotels have small kitchens in the rooms. A grocery truck stops twice a week. We bought avocados, limes, cilantro and tortilla chips and made guacamole to go with Bob's pina coladas. In Xcalak, the most reliable restaurant is Sylvia's, a local spot where we ate fresh fried fish, red rice and French fries for about $6 each.

Getting there: Several airlines fly from PDX to Cancun, including Alaska, Frontier, Delta, American and U.S. Air. Current restricted roundtrip fares start at about $300. The best way to travel the five hours, 240 miles from the Cancun airport to Xcalak is to rent a car. Travelocity (www.travelocity.com) lists weekly rates including taxes starting at $252 plus insurance for an air-conditioned, automatic intermediate car. Roads are paved and easy to drive, although most locals advise against driving at night. If you arrive in Cancun late in the day, drive to Puerto Morelas (about 40 minutes) or to Playa del Carmen (about one hour). Spend the night, then continue to Xcalak the next morning. Local hotels will provide directions. Or, if you have plenty of time and patience, take a bus.

When to go: High season runs winter through spring break, when hotels are often booked months in advance. Off-season months such as May, June (before school is out), September and October are less crowded.

Don't go if: Your dream vacation includes partying, shopping and luxury resorts.

Do go if: You treasure spotting sea turtles and purple fan coral on a leisurely snorkel or scuba dive, watching pelicans dive for fish or finishing a 600-page novel, or if you enjoy lights out at 9 p.m.

Kathryn Kurtz is a Portland freelance travel writer. Reach her via travel@news.oregonian.com